de Young Museum, San Francisco
September 21, 2013 through February 17, 2014
Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, San Francisco
+1 415-750-3600

This exhibition showcases approximately 150 pieces created by the renowned Italian jeweler Bulgari over four decades, highlighting jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and includes many pieces from the personal collection of Elizabeth Taylor.

Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Works in the exhibition also include those from the 1970s and 80s, a particularly innovative period for the jeweler and one influenced by Pop Art and other contemporary trends. "The hard-edged designs of the 1970s included a whole range based on the Stars-and-Stripes motif, while in the 1980s the Parentesi collection had a smoother, modular, almost architectural presence; both show how the jeweler could lead in new directions with a strong sense of design,” said Martin Chapman, curator in charge of European Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.