CITY GUIDE / NEW YORK / RESTAURANTS / BALTHAZAR

Balthazar is still as much of a power scene as ever. The atmosphere has been compared to a bustling railway station. But it all works, harking back to the classic French brasserie of the early 20th century, complete with red banquettes, world-weary mirrors with wine selections printed on them and a scarred wood bar. The food is solid along classic bistro lines, with such dishes as tender whole-roasted chicken, simple fish preparations and steak frites, with heavy amounts of celebrity caché.

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