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Chef Tom Colicchio has a corner spot on 10th Avenue's restaurant row. He's famous for paring menus down to the basics and letting customers choose their side dishes. No diner could complain about lack of choice.You can order your hunk of beast based not just on cut and size, but also provenance, and even lineage. A two-story glass wine tower separates the dining area, a sprawling, high-ceilinged space where butter-colored banquettes are the best seats in the house.