CITY GUIDE / NEW YORK / RESTAURANTS / MORIMOTO

A master of sushi and traditional Japanese cuisine, Masaharu Morimoto chooses to dazzle his clientele with a globally inspired menu. Korean bibimbap made with yellowtail tuna or pork gyoza dunked in crème fraîche, anyone? The desserts include a soufflé ingeniously flavored with red miso and a chiffon-colored square of tofu "cheesecake" topped with shavings of chocolate. Japanese architect Tadao Ando has sprinkled the restaurant with all sorts of esoteric touches such as the curved, low-slung entrance hung with a giant red curtain and the walls and ceilings of the main dining room upstairs that are covered with sheets of rippled white plaster, for a strangely soothing effect.

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