CITY GUIDE / NEW YORK / RESTAURANTS / PER SE

One sign of Per Se's dedication to excellence is its guest/service ratio: there are only 26 tables, but a staff of around 50 in the kitchen, which measures 700 square meters. Owner and chef Thomas Keller, who first wowed American gourmets with his heavenly French Laundry restaurant in Napa Valley, has surpassed himself in Gotham. Prepare yourself for a palate challenging experience with his Tasting Menu, a four-hour banquet including such delicacies as Oysters and Pearls – oysters poached in sabayon, tapioca and caviar – and feather-light black sesame cones filled with salmon and fresh cream.

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