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Looking for the most promising new chefs? We've tracked down today's shooting stars in the international gastro galaxy.
On the look out for the most promising new chefs ? We've tracked down the most eclectic and talented shooting stars on the international gastro scene.
When it comes to finding the best chef in the world, it's not always that easy and they're not always from France! Indeed, the latest 'World Best Listing' only ranked two Frenchmen in the top ten: Pierre Gagnaire (www.pierre-gagnaire.com) and Michel Bras (www.michel-bras.com) came in at third and sixth places respectively, while Spaniard Ferran Adria (www.elbulli.com) won first prize, followed by Heston Blumenthal (www.fatduck.co.uk), the Englishman behind Fat Duck
But that said gastronomy is still a deep-rooted part of French culture with a generous handful of chefs raised in France, remaining the most prominent trendsetters on the international scene. Their schools and culinary institutes are just one way of keeping their names on the lips of food fans. In 2005, Pierre Hermé (www.pierreherme.com)opened a school of 'haute pâtisserie' while L'Atelier des Chefs (www.atelierdeschefs.com), founded by brothers Nicolas and François Bergerault, offers private cooking lessons under the supervising eye of renowned chefs. So, in spite of the increasing competition, French culinary genius is still a highly sought after commodity, as the mile-long reservation lists for the world's best tables, confirms.
The biggest change is the one that sees tradition taking a back seat while the art of chemistry forges forward, infusing high end gastronomy with fusion concepts and dissolving all geographical boundaries. You don't even need a passport to travel anymore; in 2006 the world is on your plate!
When it comes to breaking down the boundaries, New York is, of course, gourmet central. A vast number of big names end up settling here (after travelling stints in Asia and Europe), where they compose their business plan on discreet corner tables and decide how to become world famous. Some of their recipes for success have included:
A/ writing a book (think Jamie Oliver) www.jamieoliver.com
B/ hosting a TV show (think Iron Chef, Morimoto, Nobu's executive chef) www.chefmorimoto.com
C/ opening a restaurant in an up and coming neighbourhood with design darling of the moment (think Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Christian Liaigre at Spice Market in New York). www.jean-georges.com
Other chefs are just born under lucky stars and get themselves discovered by luminaries such as Alain Ducasse - which is exactly what happened to new Italian kid on the block, Angelo Sosa (www.buddakannyc.com), who was subsequently invited to take over Spoon in Paris for a couple of weeks.
It often seems that a good designer, a good mentor and a good book are the necessary accoutrements for a successful chef. But clever marketing and communication strategies aside, when it comes down to the brass tacks of what is actually on your plate, who really is the best chef?
In terms of innovation, Alain Ducasse (www.alain-ducasse.com) is without a doubt an opinion leader. When he started the Fou de France program in 2003, his aim was to set new gastronomic standards while supporting young talent based in the provinces. These emerging chefs are taught not only the meticulous techniques behind great cooking but also an imaginative approach to shapes and colours. With the fresh eye of a novice, they explore gastronomy just like apprentice painters, sculptures and aesthetes.
After 15 years under the watchful regard of Alain Ducasse (for whom he opened Essex House, which was an immediate success), Didier Elena (http://www.lescrayeres.com/) has taken on the Louise Pommery mansion in Reims, a luxury haven nestled in dreamy parklands. There, he shows off his precision genius (his creative edge is often compared to that of Jean François Piège at Le Crillon Hotel in Paris) with dishes like the chaud-froid of langoustine breaded in a pistachio and almond mix, that seduce the clientele after one bite!
Back in Paris, Pascal Barbot at l'Astrance merits his two Michelin stars with a world of influences brought back from his travels like a true adventurer. Ever faithful to his master - Alain Passard (www.alain-passard.com) at l'Arpège - his signature dishes are exercises in delirious perfection... oysters served on a bed of queue de boeuf with a beetroot mousse, anyone? In Vichy - another Alain Passard disciple - Jacques Decoret (http://www.jacquesdecoret.com), projects us into the future with his 17 course menu that combines humour and provocation; from explosive tomato delicacies drunk through a straw to breaded snails served with fried watercress and ricotta, the mind boggles at Decoret's delicious irreverence.
Thierry Marx (http://www.cordeillanbages.com) at Pauillac goes even wilder as he explores street food and technology to distort our conventional notions of eating. When the liquid Quiche Lorraine is set down on the table, you know that you've embarked on a culinary journey, where ingredients, textures and visual stimulation will take you out of this world.
And these are only the big names. Elsewhere there's a whole new generation of chefs quietly shaking world gastronomy, just waiting to titillate every single one of your senses... Enjoy!
Pascal Barbot @ L'Astrance, 4 rue Beethoven, 75 016 Paris / 01 40 50 84 40