Surely one of the most memorable shows of Paris couture week was Jean Paul Gaultier’s ode to Amy Winehouse. Sending models down the catwalk with beehive wigs, tattoos, heavy eyeliner and with cigarettes in hand, Gaultier made more than mere references to the late soul singer, extending her style even into the collection which was pillared by corsetry (handmade by Mr. Pearl in London) that mirrored Winehouse’s favoured hourglass silhouette. Indeed, with similar anarchist spirits, Jean Paul found the ultimate Gaultier muse in Winehouse.

In a move that might seem as unlikely (Gaultier being known for his stellar tailoring and genius creativity; Winehouse being known in fashion terms for her love of the Fred Perry polo shirt) as it was controversial (her father has accused Gaultier of cashing in on her death and complained that the show was ‘bad taste’), the enfant terrible won over the critics with a collection that was unanimously declared as exceptional.

Rather than being a case of Back to Black, Gaultier used ultra bright shades of turquoise, green, yellow and purple on the Winehouse-inspired get ups, which included her favourite pencil skirts, silk parka jackets lined with pink sequins, a cocktail dress that recalled those Fred Perry polos, and a baseball jacket with an hourglass cut.

But more than simply a homage to Amy’s signature style, this was a collection that was pure Gaultier in that it included a compilation of his most iconic pieces – the trench coat, underwear as eveningwear, motorcycle jacket, and look after look of that expert tailoring. In this respect, the Amy Winehouse theme made perfect sense: Gaultier found his muse for a collection that was nothing short of his Greatest Hits.

’To me the scandal is that no fashion magazine did an Amy Winehouse cover. She was so exceptional in her style; how she held her body; the way she dressed, mixing pieces from different decades.”
- Jean Paul Gaultier