With masterful trench coats as dresses, biker-style tutus, conical bras, and outstanding tailoring – all infused with feathers and a sense of fun – Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest couture collection was a Greatest Hits of some of his most iconic work. Inspired by the ballerinas of Black Swan (hence the explosion of pheasant, cockerel and marabou plumes) and also the genius jersey drapery of Madame Gres (after the show Gaultier raved about the current exhibition of her work in Paris), Gaultier updated his signature pieces making them more chic than ever. Highlights included the reworked trench dress in gold silk faille and mousseline, the leather and jersey coat named Black Swan, and the opening number, a pin-stripe suit that came incorporated with a tutu. In a first for the couture shows (though not by any means a first for the enfant terrible), Gaultier sent a large number of looks for men down the catwalk: sweeping capes, leather trousers, tuxedos, smoking jackets and ultra-luxurious coats. And of course, this being Gaultier, there was radical gender-bending with male models also sporting feather skirts and exquisitely embellished pieced. Our verdict: classic Gaultier, as modern and as fun as ever.