Fashion editors often rave about the between-season cruise shows (they are said to be more wearable) and at Louis Vuitton it has become the brand’s most important collection (reflecting a growing customer base in areas like Brazil and the Middle East). Which meant that all eyes – especially those of LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault – were on Nicolas Ghesquière last week, who presented his first resort and second ever collection for Louis Vuitton in spectacular style in Monaco.

The pressure was on but Ghesquière confidently built on his sixties-themed debut with a Resort 2015 collection that was seventies-inspired in silhouette but futuristic and cutting edge in terms of materials. Famously pioneering, Ghesquière worked with Neoprene, ultra thick python and holographic sequins for dramatic affect. Wallpaper-like prints, an unusual palette and hems that recalled coral branches were yet more of his innovations. From the moment that editors took their seats (in Pierre Paulin chairs) and the soundtrack began (‘Monument’, the catchy new tune from Royksopp and Robyn), there were smiles on the front row, including – most importantly – on Mr. Arnault.

“My imagination, or my imagery if you will, of Louis Vuitton is quite strongly rooted in the Seventies. I mean, I think there was a moment when people like Charlotte’s mother, Jane Birkin, were doing their thing with this really cool and slightly offhand look with a real sense of mixing genres. At the same time she had Vuitton luggage, which was the symbol of a certain bourgeoisie, and as a result she gave it a completely different spin.

“It’s also potentially very interesting for younger generations, even if the references are rooted in the Seventies. It’s a way of saying, ‘Look, this is accessible, this is something you can have fun with, this is something offbeat and you can indeed wear a monogram pattern and still be extremely cool.’”

“What is interesting is to see things that can appear offbeat or surprising or perhaps even ugly will eventually make mentalities evolve, and suddenly they can become a benchmark and then you move on to something else. It’s not up to me anyway to say what exactly constitutes good taste or bad taste. I like to shake things up and make them clash. Some of the colors here were very new for me and quite surprising, which I like. It opens the eye and prepares the viewer perhaps for what will follow, which could be a return to all-black. That’s often how it works.”

- Nicolas Ghesquière on Louis Vuitton Resort 2015