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Chin Chin Laboratorists in London is Europe's first nitrogen ice-cream parlour, which replaces the time consuming process of fridge freezing with the instant gratification of liquid nitrogen. We sample the bespoke dessert.
“Nitro” ice-cream is nothing new, having been pioneered by inventive chefs including Ferran Adria and Heston Blumenthal. But Chin Chin Laboratorists in London represents the first time it has been available in Europe outside of the world of haute gastronomy.
Replacing the traditional process of freezing an egg custard mix with the infusion of liquid nitrogen into the ingredients, the “nitro” dessert is created instantly. Cold nitrogen gas dramatically bursts from the mixing bowl but the theatre that is its making is not the only advantage of the nitro component: with no ice crystals, the resulting ice-cream is smoother and thicker.
Chin Chin Laboratorists has been two years in the making as its founders Ahrash Akbari-Kalhur and Nyisha Weber experimented with both the technology and the ingredients. Their futuristic ice-cream parlour opened at the beginning of July, offering a restaurant-inspired menu of bespoke flavours. Customers are able to view the entire science experiment-like process, complete with staff wearing white coats and regulation goggles, in a boutique designed by architects Shai Akram and Andre Haythrownthwaite.
It is a space that demystifies the process that was once the preserve of only the most costly restaurants. Conversely, a take away tub from Chin Chin averages at a democratic £4. And nitrogen-infused ice-cream is just the beginning of Chin Chin Laboratorists’ drive to bring a scoop of the rarefied world of experimental cuisine to the masses: next up, they intend on offering ice-cream noodles and glow-in-the-dark desserts.
Ahrash Akbari-Kalhur’s Definition of Luxury:
A selfish act of indulgence; I don't think it should ever be vulgar or ostentatious but utterly hedonistic.
If luxury were an object?
A crisp cornet with white chocolate nitro ice cream topped with five grams of Caspian beluga caviar eaten with a cold scoop (white gold of course).
If luxury were a place?
There can only be one place: Place de la Madeleine in Paris - luxury for the gourmand!
If luxury were a moment?
With one knee on a wet jetty in Île de Ré, proposing to my then girlfriend, now my wondrous wife!
If luxury were a person?
For her poise and grace, it has to be Charlotte Rampling. She really has it, doesn't she?