LUXURYCULTURE.COM - SIHH 2010: Timepiece Trends Report


The latest innovations in watches have been revealed at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. We showcase the flagship watches from some of the world's most important manufacturers and highlight the new trends.

At the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), which takes place from January 18 to 22 in Geneva, nineteen exhibitors – mainly from the Richemont Group but with a sprinkling of independent Swiss bands – are displaying their latest innovations in timepieces. For the SIHH 2010, the twentieth year of the annual show, the trends are clear: an increased use of rose gold, a return to simple dials that are often accompanied by ultra-slim cases, ever more complex innovations in watch mechanics, and more unique pieces that cater to a clientele that demands exclusivity.

Approximately 15,000 buyers, agents and journalists will attend this invitation-only event, which is a showcase for the latest offerings from some of the world’s most important watch manufactures. Held in the City of Fine Watchmaking, a specially designed 24,000 square-meter space, each brand commissions top interior designers to create lavish stands. But it is the timepieces that are the stars of the show, and this is where watchmakers launch their latest designs and technological advances.

Despite Switzerland’s decrease in watch exports over the last twelve months, there are still clients at the top of the market who will be looking to purchase rare, beautifully designed and mechanically pioneering timepieces. We showcase the best of the show.

A. Lange & Söhne
The distinguishing feature of the Lange 1 Daymatic is its mirrored dial layout and retro day-of-week indication. A totally new self-winding movement was developed from the ground up for this watch.

Audemars Piguet
The Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix Chronograph limited edition is inspired by the relationship between watchmaking and motor racing. Its unique features include dial counters that resemble dashboard instruments, a crown shaped like a gear, and a bezel that evokes a ventilated disc brake.

With the inauguration of the Rotonde de Cartier skeleton flying tourbillon watch, 9455 MC calibre, Geneva Seal, Cartier debuts a new manufacture movement with self winding. Only 100 timepieces will be made.

A new collection of Dunhill timepieces includes the elegant Classic watch, available in stainless steel and pink gold with a matt black alligator or a full stainless steel bracelet strap. The watch uses a Jaeger-LeCoultre 896-dato calibre movement.

A traditional chronograph with a 30-minute counter and central second hand makes up the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph. Its column-wheel movement comprises an impressive 304 components.

Greubel Forsey
This is the first time that Greubel Forsey has appeared at the SIHH. For 20 years, the inventor-watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have specialized in mechanical-watchmaking complications and the tourbillon, making a series of fundamental inventions. At SIHH they debuted the Double Tourbillon Technique in 5N red gold.

The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph is a neatly designed precision instrument from IWC that is water-resistant to 6 bar and is equipped with a screw-in crown and a crown protection.

A mechanical chronograph with GMT-function called the Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 is the latest timepiece from Jaeger-LeCoultre. Specially developed for use in the most extreme conditions, it was designed with explorers in mind.

The distinguishing feature of the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph is a movement in which the lever and escape-wheel are made of silicon, which embodies the brand’s desire to move into state-of-the-art horological artistry.

A classic Panerai shape is coupled with a radical movement in the Radiomir Oro Rosa. Its new mechanical movement, called the P.999, was developed by Neuchâtel.

The elegant Piaget Altiplano 43mm is the thinnest watch in its category at just 5.25mm thick. Piaget is well known for its ultra-thin timepieces and this model is equipped with the 1208P calibre movement.

Ralph Lauren
At SIHH, Ralph Lauren are showcasing the Slim Classique 42mm with a diamond-set bezel. 96 round, brilliant-cut diamonds are each grain set.

Richard Mille
The RM 025 was Richard Mille’s first diver’s watch and the RM 028 utilizes a number of its features in a slightly smaller case. This timepiece includes a skeletonized movement with automatic winding and variable rotor geometry, a Richard Mille exclusive.

Roger Dubuis
Only 28 pieces of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur will be made, a house classic that has been redesigned but retains its openwork dial and unique finish to the movement.

Vacheron Constantin
The Historique Ultra-fine 1955 is currently the world’s thinnest mechanical hand-wound watch with a case that measures just 4.10mm. For its 55th anniversary in 2010, Vacheron Constantin have rebuilt it in 18-carat gold.

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