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Cutting it fine in the culinary world, the age-old art of knife-making re-ignites an ardor for artisanal hardware.
Contemporary accoutrements bear little resemblance to their stone-age predecessors; today's culinary chef d'oeuvres are honed to perfection, making a swathe in the style stakes.
Well-versed gourmets maintain the belief that a chef's success is recognized not only by his gastronomic savoir-faire, but by the caliber of his knives. "I can tell so much about a cook simply by observing how they handle and maintain their knives," says the chef Daniel Boulud. This ritualistic rite of passage–discovering the perfect knife–may be like seeking out the sword of Excalibur, but once it's found, with optimum care the right implement can last a lifetime, and beyond.
The craft of knife-making is a revered art form, with regions dedicated to upholding centuries-old traditions. For example, in Solingen, the 135 year-old Windmühle factory still employs the age-old 'dry fine grinding' technique, defined by its long grinding angle for extra sharpness and long-lasting sharp edge, once a signature style of the German province and now nearly obsolete.
Giselheid Herder-Scholz, the president and great granddaughter of Robert Herder, founder of the Windmühle factory, not only strives to preserve the family-owned company's age-old heritage, but the work of Japan's master craftsmen, such as Koichi Morimoto, Shinichiro Yamamoto and Shigehiro Kasahara, an alliance of master blade grinders, known collectively as the "TonTenKan" group. Based in Sakai, an early enclave for Japan's metal forges dating back to approximately the 5th century, the three grinders, each awarded the accolade "Dento-Kogeishi" – master of traditional craftsmen – uphold ancient techniques, producing some of the most exquisite knives, crafted from layered high-grade steel.
With so many grades, finishes and details to choose from, we might wonder what, apart from a sharp blade, makes the perfect knife? "First is design," states Robert Kramer, one of only 67 master bladesmiths in the US. "Design comes into play with how big the handle is, the shape of the blade, the shape of the rocker, how thin and precisely the knife is ground, and whether it is designed for the proper application. There are some knives that look beautiful in the store, but they are not designed appropriately, so once you put them into action, they can feel uncomfortable."
In general, culinary knives fall into two categories: Japanese and Western. While Western-style knives are heavier, wider and have a double-edge blade, Japanese knives are thinner, with straight or beveled handles for a better grip and an edge on one side only. Japanese blades are traditionally hand-forged from high-carbon steel. The high carbon content makes the steel harder, and it can therefore be ground thinner and sharper, but it also becomes prone to rusting. Western and Western-style Japanese knives, however, are made from stainless steel, which is better for everyday use.
Hybrids showing the Western influence on Japanese cuisine, Western-style Japanese knives were developed when ingredients such as meat and poultry were introduced into the Japanese diet in the 17th century. Although these knives have a double-edged blade like traditional Western knives, supreme-quality models such as Korin's Masanobu Gyutou and Nenohi Nenox Red Handle Gyutou have a 70:30 or 60:40 ratio on either side of the blade. One of the most prized examples of the culinary cross-fertilization are Suisin knives. Hand-crafted in Sakai, the Wa-Petty knife is the perfect hybrid. "The blade is very thin, made from stain-resistant Inox Steel, with a Japanese wooden handle. The double-edged blade is only sharpened at a slight angle on the back side of the blade. So you see, this knife has the characteristics of both Western and Japanese knives," explains Holli Roberts of Korin.
The Masamoto Sohonten Company's Yanagi knife, designed for sushi/sashimi filet cutting, is a beautiful example of just how seriously the Japanese take their knives. Made from exceptionally high quality No. 2 blue steel, its beauty is its polished finish – a painstaking craft that is dwindling. Masamoto Sohonten dates back five generations to 1872. Realizing Minosuke Matsuzawa's dream to be "remembered as knife craftsmen throughout the generations," Masamoto knives are still widely regarded as one of the finest brands by professional chefs.
While Japanese cooks remain true to their historic form, in the West, Europeans in particular have made their own unique regional mark. "The main difference is in Europe. The Germans tend to like their knives deeper and a little bit wider at the heel, while the French chef's knife tends to be slightly narrower, with a little bit of a smaller handle, so there's an element of finesse," explains Robert Kramer.
Steeped in Gallic savoir-faire, the Forge de Laguiole has brought the 19th century navaja – a lock-blade knife used by laborers from the village of Laguiole – into the present with the help of contemporary design names from Philippe Starck and Eric Raffy to the latest addition, Matali Crasset. Sublimely sleek and sexy, such designs show that it's no wonder France forges ahead in the gourmet stakes.
Of course, a knife is only as good as its blade. Between annual visits to a professional knife sharpener, invest in a ceramic stick for honing and a sharpening steel or a water stone for deep sharpening and ironing out nicks in the blade. The key to good honing is to rub the edge of the honing implement across the blade at a 20-degree angle. As chef Daniel Boulud concludes, "Treat your knives well and they will serve you well."